RV purchase contract review: beat junk fees, arbitration traps, and deposit pitfalls

What an RV purchase contract review really requires (and why it matters right now)

AI-powered research tools have systematically collected and analyzed public information to produce this report. We combined consumer complaints, dealer paperwork patterns, and legal frameworks to cut through the noise: before you sign an RV purchase contract, you need a structured, skeptical review. This is where buyers either lock in a fair deal—or inherit expensive trouble.

The RV purchase contract is not just a receipt. It’s a bundle of documents (often signed at different moments) that control your price, fees, trade-in, financing, delivery timetable, warranty start date, arbitration rights, and your recourse if things go wrong. Across hundreds of consumer reports, the most costly issues arise from avoidable contract oversights: unclear “we-owe” promises, non-refundable deposits that become sticky, optional add-ons slipped into the finance office, “as-is” disclaimers on used units, and binding arbitration clauses with class-action waivers that are hard to unwind later.

RV dealers range from exemplary to aggressively sales-focused. You can hold your ground—with process, clarity, and a pen. This deep-dive teaches you exactly where hidden risk lives in the paperwork and how to get everything you’re owed, in writing, before a single signature.

Quick question before we dig in: have you run into confusing clauses or last-minute changes in your RV deal? Tell the community what surprised you.

Where to hear real owner stories before you sign

Contract patterns and problems repeat across models and regions. Listening to current owner experiences can surface dealership playbooks, fee practices, and tactics you might face in the finance office. Start here:

Join brand-specific owner groups (via search) to study real paperwork, delivery timelines, and service realities. Use: Find RV brand Facebook groups through Google. Tip: Once you have a shortlist of brands, redo that search with the brand name (e.g., “Grand Design Facebook Groups”) and read “files” sections for example purchase orders and due bills.
Watch detailed contract walkthroughs, add-on explanations, and buyer “gotchas” videos: YouTube search: RV purchase contract review.
Scan unfiltered buyer threads about deposits, delivery delays, “we-owe” promises, and arbitration: Reddit r/rvs search: RV purchase contract review.

The anatomy of an RV purchase agreement bundle

Most buyers expect a single-page “invoice.” In practice, your agreement is a packet that may include some or all of the following. Read every page and insist on copies of unsigned drafts before you commit:

Purchase Order or Buyer’s Order (the price, VIN/HIN, options, fees, taxes, and any trade-in values)
Retail Installment Sales Contract (RISC) if you finance through the dealer (APR, term, payment, amount financed, add-ons, and the federal Holder Rule notice)
Arbitration agreement and/or class action waiver (sometimes standalone, sometimes embedded)
“We-Owe” or Due Bill (specific items the dealer must perform or deliver after sale—repairs, parts, accessories, firmware updates, second keys, missing remotes, etc.)
Inspection/PDI checklist and delivery acceptance form (what was checked, what wasn’t, and your acknowledgment)
Odometer disclosure (motorized units), generator hours, date-of-sale and warranty start date
Title and registration documents, temporary tag forms, tax affidavits
Warranty registration or warranty acknowledgement (manufacturer and any service contracts)
Deposit agreement/receipt (refund conditions, deadlines, contingencies)
Bailment or spot-delivery agreement (if you take delivery before lender funds; risky)
Dealer-installed options/work orders (detailing any “prep package” or accessory bundle)

Purchase Order vs. RISC: different roles, different risks

The Purchase Order sets the sales terms, the out-the-door price, and the promises. The RISC (if used) governs the financing and can be assigned to a lender. It is common for the Purchase Order to say one thing and the RISC (or addenda) to silently add costs. Compare the “amount financed” on the RISC with your Purchase Order “total cash price” plus legitimate fees—if it’s higher, find out why before you sign.

Where mistakes and mischief often hide

Prechecked add-ons in the finance office (service contracts, GAP, theft etching, paint/fabric protection)
Ambiguous “market adjustment” or “dealer package” line items lacking description
We-Owe language that’s vague or missing delivery dates
Nonrefundable deposit terms that don’t include financing, inspection, or delivery contingencies
Arbitration clauses with short opt-out windows and complex mailing requirements
Incorrect VIN/HIN, serial numbers, build sheet mismatches, or wrong options

Twenty must-review contract clauses (and what to do when they’re not in your favor)

Vehicle identification: Confirm VIN/HIN, year, model, floorplan, and all option codes match the actual unit. Compare to the manufacturer build sheet and any sticker on the unit. Ask the seller to attach the build sheet to your Purchase Order.
Out-the-door price: Your total should include unit price, freight/destination (if charged), doc fee, title/registration, and sales tax. Demand a single “bottom line” total in writing. If a dealer won’t provide an itemized OTD worksheet before you visit, that is a red flag.
Doc fees and add-ons: Many states cap doc fees or require disclosure. The doc fee isn’t usually negotiable—but the sale price is. If the doc fee is high, counter by reducing the unit price by the same amount.
Dealer packages: “Prep,” “Protection,” “Customer care,” “Nitrogen,” “Paint sealant,” or “Theft deterrent” bundles should be optional. If you don’t want them, ask for a unit without those items or require the dealer to remove the charge.
Trade-in math: Specify your trade allowance, lien payoff, who will pay off the lien, how long payoff will take, and what happens if the payoff changes due to additional interest days. Ensure negative equity is clearly disclosed if rolled into the new loan.
Financing terms: On the RISC, verify APR, term length, amount financed, payment, and any prepayment penalty. Most RV loans have no prepayment penalty, but don’t assume. If you have your own credit union offer, ask the dealer to beat it in writing.
Spot delivery/bailment: If the dealer asks you to take delivery before the lender funds, decline. Until funding, the contract can unwind. “Yo-yo” financing was a common complaint in the auto world; don’t let it migrate to your RV experience.
Deposit refund conditions: Make deposit refunds contingent on financing approval, satisfactory third-party inspection, and a completed pre-delivery inspection (PDI) with all major systems functioning. Never leave a large cash deposit without written, dated terms.
Inspection and acceptance: Your contract should allow you to reject delivery if enumerated defects arise at PDI. Require a written PDI checklist and time for a full walkthrough with shore power and water connected.
We-Owe/Due Bill: List every missing part, accessory, or repair with specific deadlines and costs, and tie them to the dealer’s obligation. Example: “Replace rear camera monitor, part #____, no later than MM/DD/YYYY, or refund $___.”
Warranty start date: Ensure the manufacturer warranty start date is your actual delivery date, not dealer receipt date. Record generator hours and odometer miles on delivery to establish a baseline for any early-failure claims.
Used-unit “as-is” language: If buying used, “as-is” generally disclaims implied warranties. If a written warranty or service contract is included, understand exactly what is covered. If significant systems are not working at delivery, don’t sign acceptance.
Arbitration and class waiver: If you prefer to keep court options, ask to remove arbitration. Some dealers will say no; if you still proceed, look for opt-out instructions and deadlines. Put a calendar reminder to mail your opt-out letter with tracking.
Governing law and venue: Out-of-state purchases may bind you to the dealer’s state for disputes. Consider buying closer to home or negotiate venue to your state.
Delivery date and delays: If timing matters (vacation, storage deadlines), write in a delivery date and a remedy if missed (e.g., rental credit, cancellation right).
Title and taxes: Confirm who submits title paperwork, when, and to which state. Verify sales tax rules for your domicile state when buying out of state.
Addendum hierarchy: Some dealers attach addenda that supersede your negotiated Purchase Order. Require language that your signed addendum prevails over conflicting printed terms.
Electronic signatures: If signing digitally, demand a complete, locked PDF of every document you signed the moment you sign it. Check that the final versions match your negotiated paper drafts.
Holdback of funds: If the dealer owes significant work at delivery, consider negotiating a small holdback escrow documented on the Due Bill. Many dealers resist; at minimum, tie the final payment to a successful systems demo.
Cooling-off rule myth: There is no automatic federal three-day right to cancel purchases made at a dealership. If you need a cancellation right, negotiate it explicitly and get it in writing.

Have you run into a clause you didn’t understand until after signing? Add your contract lesson for other shoppers.

What’s changed lately (2022–2025): contract and dealership patterns to expect

Recent buyer reports and dealer paperwork suggest several trends:

Higher reliance on arbitration and class-action waivers in both dealer paperwork and some manufacturer warranties, often with tight opt-out windows.
Electronic signature flows that bundle optional add-ons by default. The convenience is real; so is the risk of clicking through pre-checked products.
Add-on packages rebranded as “protection” or “customer care” with limited written detail; insist on line-item descriptions and ability to decline.
Pressure to call deposits “non-refundable.” With cooling demand and large inventories in many regions, buyers report more negotiation power than in 2021–2022—but deposit policy pressure persists.
Service backlogs at some dealers make post-sale promises harder to fulfill quickly; the Due Bill needs clear deadlines to stay enforceable.

To stay balanced: there are positive changes, too. Several dealers have upgraded PDIs, staffing, and on-boarding walkthroughs since the rush years. Some now provide video walkthroughs pre-delivery and better checklists. Recognize the improvements—but still verify everything in writing.

A disciplined 60–90 minute contract review routine

Successful buyers treat the contract like a system test. Here’s a step-by-step approach you can print and bring with you.

Before the appointment

Request a blank Purchase Order and a blank RISC and all addenda by email. Good dealers will send them.
Prepare a short addendum stating: “This sale is contingent on (a) financing approval at or below X% APR for Y months, (b) satisfactory PDI with all major systems functioning, (c) delivery by [date], (d) the attached Due Bill items completed by [date], (e) warranty start on delivery date.”
Write down your “must not exceed” out-the-door price and your maximum payment if financing. Treat add-ons as optional unless proven valuable at a fair price.
Line up an independent inspection if you’re buying used or a complex motorhome. Use a local search like: RV Inspectors near me.

At the dealership

Insist on “pen and paper” review first, then e-sign. Ask the finance manager to print your final package before you sign anything.
Compare Purchase Order totals to the RISC “amount financed.” Any gap must be justified in writing.
Cross out any unwanted add-ons and have the manager initial the changes. If they say “we can’t,” ask for a unit without that add-on or an equivalent price reduction.
Add a detailed Due Bill for missing items or repairs, with dates and values. Include any second key or remote that is missing and the exact replacement part costs.
Ask about arbitration: if removal isn’t available, note the opt-out process and set a reminder to send your opt-out letter by registered mail if that’s your choice.
Refuse spot delivery. Wait for lender funding before taking the unit home.

At delivery

Perform a full PDI with shore power and water. Extend slides, run HVAC, water heater, furnace, fridge, stove/oven, fans, all plumbing, awnings, stabilizers, leveling system, generator, and every 12V and 120V outlet. Verify all safety detectors have fresh dates.
Record odometer, generator hours, and the warranty start date on a delivery form that both parties sign.
If significant defects exist, do not sign “acceptance” until they are fixed or documented on the Due Bill with dates. Consider postponing delivery if issues are substantial.
Confirm you receive a complete, locked PDF of everything you signed before you drive away.

What’s your strongest contract review tip that other readers should know? Add your best tactic to the thread.

Deposits: refundable, non-refundable, and how to protect yourself

Deposits are where many buyers lose leverage.

Get a deposit agreement in writing that lists refund triggers: financing denial, unsatisfactory inspection, failure to deliver by an agreed date, or discovery of undisclosed damage/title brand.
Use a credit card for deposits rather than cash or debit when possible. If a dealer refuses to honor written refund terms, you have dispute options with your card issuer.
Avoid “build order” deposits for factory orders unless the agreement makes the deposit refundable if the unit arrives with different options, weight, or price than quoted.
Don’t leave a deposit just to “hold” a unit without a fully itemized out-the-door purchase order.

Trade-ins complicate deposits. Clarify in writing:

Who keeps the trade until your new loan funds and the sale closes
Who pays your trade payoff, how quickly, and how you’ll receive proof
Whether the dealer can sell your trade before the deal is fully funded (ideally, no)

Financing: the RISC controls your money—read it like a banker

If you finance through the dealer, the Retail Installment Sales Contract is the authoritative document. Focus here:

APR and term: Ensure they match your approval. If the dealer “found a better lender,” ask to see the approval terms in writing.
Amount financed: Should equal (purchase price + allowed fees + taxes + add-ons you agree to) minus down payment and trade equity. If it’s higher, find the difference.
Add-ons: Service contracts, GAP, tire/wheel, and theft products should be clearly listed with prices. If you don’t want them, the amount financed should drop by those amounts.
Prepayment: Most RV loans have no penalty to pay off early, but verify.
Federal Holder Rule notice: Look for this language (paraphrased): “Any holder of this consumer credit contract is subject to all claims and defenses….” This preserves your right to assert claims against the loan holder if the dealer misrepresented the sale. Make sure your RISC includes it.

Consider bringing your own financing approval from a credit union as a backstop. It often keeps APR fair and short-circuits pressure to buy overpriced add-ons.

Fees: what’s typical and what’s junk

Legitimate fees—varied by state and situation—may include:

Government title/registration fees and sales tax
Reasonable dealer doc fee (often capped by state)
Destination/freight if not already included in the unit price (verify against the manufacturer’s invoice or written policy when possible)

Fees that demand scrutiny:

“Market adjustment” or “dealer addendum” without a clear, itemized value
“Prep,” “PDI,” or “Delivery” charges that duplicate what most dealers include; ask for a written scope of work
Non-optional protection packages (protection should be optional)
“Fuel surcharge” or “etching” on towables; ask what you actually receive

Tactic: Don’t argue whether a fee is “real.” Just negotiate the out-the-door price. If a dealer insists on a fee, reduce the unit price by the same amount.

Before you accept delivery: use the Due Bill and PDI as leverage

Two documents protect your outcome on day one:

The PDI checklist and your acceptance form—this is your systems test. Do not sign that everything works unless you personally verified it works.
The Due Bill—we-owe promises. If it’s not in writing with a date and value, it did not happen.

Checklist highlights to test under power and water:

All slides in/out, free of binding
Leveling/stabilization systems up/down; no error codes
12V and 120V power, transfer switch, converter/charger, inverter (if equipped)
Water pump, faucets, shower, toilet, water heater on both electric and gas modes
Furnace and A/C in all zones; thermostat functions
Fridge on both power sources where applicable
Awning deploy/retract, lights, fans, detectors, CO/LP alarms with recent dates
Roof and seals visual (if safe), underbody, axles/tires DOT dates, brake controller connection
Camera systems and hitch/pinbox fitments; tow plug operation

If something fails, require a Due Bill commitment with a completion date, or ask to delay delivery. You lose leverage once the unit is home.

State and federal protections to know (not legal advice)

Consumer tools that interact with your contract:

Federal Holder Rule: Preserves your ability to assert claims against assignees of your retail installment contract if the selling dealer misrepresented or breached. Make sure it’s present in your RISC if you finance through the dealer.
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act: Governs written warranties on consumer products and prohibits tying warranty coverage to paid services or branded parts. If you have a written warranty, the warrantor must disclose terms clearly.
Implied warranties and “as-is”: Many states allow “as-is” sales of used RVs that disclaim implied warranties. Some states restrict such disclaimers or tie implied warranty coverage to service contracts. Check your state AG or consumer protection office.
No automatic federal three-day cancellation: Purchases at a dealership do not have a universal “cooling-off” right. If you want a rescission right, negotiate it explicitly into the Purchase Order.
Lemon laws: Coverage of RVs varies widely and often excludes towables or the “house” portion of a motorhome. Don’t bank on lemon laws as your primary remedy; the best protection is a tight contract and a rigorous PDI.

If you need legal advice for your specific situation, consult a consumer law attorney in your state before signing.

When things go wrong: an escalation playbook

Document everything. Then escalate in this order:

Salesperson and sales manager: Reference the Due Bill and dates. Keep communications in writing.
General manager or dealer principal: Provide a concise timeline, copies of the Due Bill, PDI checklist, and any broken promises.
Manufacturer customer care: For warranty issues, open a case number and request email confirmation.
Finance company (if you financed via dealer): If the Holder Rule applies, notify the lender that the seller has unresolved breaches; ask for assistance and note potential offsets.
State agencies: File a complaint with your state Attorney General or motor vehicle dealer licensing division for deceptive practices.
Better Business Bureau: Some dealers respond quickly to public complaints; include the Due Bill and dates.
Small claims court or arbitration: Depending on your contract, you may need to arbitrate. If you have an opt-out, exercise it on time. If you didn’t, prepare a clean packet of evidence.

For deeper peer research, try these searchable resources:

Common consumer narratives—and what would have fixed them

“We were told we’d get a second key in the mail.” Months later, no key. Fix: Put “Second key cut and programmed by MM/DD/YYYY or refund $150” on the Due Bill, signed by sales manager.

“The finance guy said GAP was required.” It almost never is. Fix: Ask for the written lender requirement. If none, strike it and adjust the RISC amount financed accordingly.

“We left a $2,000 deposit and then discovered the roof sealant was cracking.” Dealer refused refund. Fix: Deposit receipt should include a clause: “Refundable if independent inspection finds structural or water intrusion defects.” Pay by credit card when possible.

“We signed acceptance and discovered the fridge didn’t cool on gas.” Fix: Test both power modes at PDI. If not working, list on Due Bill with a completion date. Don’t accept delivery until tested or promised in writing.

“We thought we had three days to change our minds.” Most buyers don’t. Fix: If you need a cancellation window, negotiate it and write it in.

Had a situation like these? What happened and what did you change next time?

Advanced tactics seasoned buyers use

Bring a printed addendum: One page with your contingencies, a short list of non-negotiables (no arbitration, no pre-checked add-ons, PDI required), and signature lines.
Use “N/A” in every blank: Empty blanks can be filled in later; line through them and initial.
Insist on line-item add-on pricing: If the dealer values their product, they can describe it in writing.
Ask for the manufacturer’s pre-delivery checklist: Compare it to the dealer’s PDI to ensure completeness.
Get the build sheet and attach it: Eliminates option mismatches and protects your resale value.
Check title brand early: Ask to see title status for used units; verify no salvage, flood, or lemon brand.
Record condition with photos: Date-stamped delivery photos support post-sale claims.

Special scenarios: factory orders, out-of-state buys, and used units

Factory orders

Build sheet accuracy: Your deposit agreement should say you can cancel or receive a price adjustment if the unit arrives with different options, capacities, or weight than quoted.
Price protection: With fluctuating MSRPs, negotiate a price-lock or cap on increases when you leave a deposit.
Delivery timing: Put a target delivery window and remedy for extended delays.

Out-of-state purchases

Taxes/title: Clarify whether the dealer collects your home-state tax or provides a form for local payment. Confirm temp tag validity across states.
Venue: Out-of-state contracts may set dispute venue in the dealer’s state—ask to switch it to yours.
Service after sale: Some dealers prioritize their own customers. Ask the manufacturer how warranty scheduling works if you buy far away.

Used units

Water intrusion risk: Prioritize independent inspection with moisture readings; used RVs often fail here.
“As-is” read-through: If “as-is,” test every system before you sign. If something crucial doesn’t work, either fix it before sale or walk away.
Warranty transfer: If the unit has a transferable extended service contract, get the transfer form and timeline in writing.

A focused RV purchase contract checklist you can print

Verify VIN/HIN, model, options, and build sheet; attach to Purchase Order.
Confirm out-the-door price; itemize all fees, taxes, and add-ons.
Strike any unwanted add-ons; initial changes on all copies.
Deposit agreement in writing with refund contingencies (finance, inspection, PDI, delivery date).
Trade-in: allowance, payoff amount, payoff timing, who pays, and proof requirement.
RISC: APR, term, payment, amount financed, add-ons listed, prepayment terms, Holder Rule notice present.
Arbitration: remove if possible; otherwise calendar opt-out deadline and follow instructions exactly.
PDI: full systems test with power and water; don’t sign acceptance until tested.
Due Bill: every owed item with part number, date, and dollar value.
Warranty start date on delivery; record odometer and generator hours.
Title/registration: who files, to which state, timing, temp tag rules.
Delivery date and remedies for delays documented if time-sensitive.
Final PDF copies of everything you signed—before leaving the lot.

Respectful but firm negotiation language you can use

“We’re ready to move forward today at this out-the-door price. If this fee is non-negotiable for you, please reduce the unit price by the same amount so our OTD remains the same.”
“We don’t purchase add-ons at signing. Please remove these from the RISC and reprint with the adjusted amount financed.”
“We’ll accept delivery after lender funding. If funding is pending, we’ll wait so neither of us has exposure.”
“Please list these items on the Due Bill with dates. If the dates slip, we’ll need a written refund for the itemized amounts.”
“If arbitration removal isn’t possible, please provide the opt-out instructions and a copy we can take home today.”

Your voice matters to other shoppers

RV buyers consistently say that clear, written expectations prevented expensive disputes. If you’ve successfully negotiated a tricky clause—or learned a tough lesson—your example can save someone else thousands. What would you tell your past self before signing?

Frequently asked quick questions

Is the dealer’s PDI fee legitimate?

Sometimes. Some dealers include PDI in the price; others itemize it. Ask for a written scope of work and decide whether the value matches the fee. Negotiate the out-the-door number regardless of labels.

Do I have three days to cancel?

Not by default when buying at a dealership location. If you want a cancellation window, negotiate it into the Purchase Order before you sign.

Can I refuse arbitration?

You can ask to remove it. Many dealers will say no. If you proceed, look for opt-out instructions post-sale and follow them exactly within the deadline.

Do I need GAP on an RV?

GAP can make sense if your down payment is small or your term is long. It should not be required by the dealer unless your lender specifically mandates it—ask to see that requirement in writing.

What if the dealer won’t fix items after delivery?

Use your Due Bill, PDI notes, and written communications. Escalate to the general manager, manufacturer, lender (if Holder Rule applies), and state consumer agencies. Document thoroughly and set deadlines.

Closing perspective

An RV purchase can be a dream realized or a headache that follows you across state lines. The difference is almost always the paperwork and whether you controlled it. If you put every promise in writing, eliminate ambiguity, and resist pressure to sign unseen documents, you’ll greatly reduce downside risk while preserving the joy of ownership.

Last request: do you have a dealer or contract clause you’d warn others about by name (or by tactic)? Drop your real-world example to help the next buyer.